What Is ‘Bias Binding’?
This seems like a great place for us to restart our blog, as Bias is one of our main reasons for existing… Laura was looking for beautiful bias tape to finish her makes and wasn’t happy with what she could find, so she created her own!
We know that when you first start looking into Bias it can be really confusing. It might be described as ‘Bias Tape’, ‘Bias Facing’ or ‘Bias Binding’. Some patterns want it to be seen, whilst others have it hidden on the inside. There are lots of different widths and ‘folds’ of bias too, which can be especially confusing when you’re new to using it.
So what is it?
At its simplest, ‘Bias’ refers to strips of fabric, cut ‘on the bias’ that are intended to enclose the raw edges of a make. If we take a piece of woven fabric, we can use the selvedge edge to show us the grain line, and at a 90° angle, we have the cross grain. When we cut ‘on the bias’ we’re cutting at a 45° angle from the grain. The 45° angle helps to give the fabric a little stretch, allowing it to be applied to curves without any tucks and puckers!
You might think, ‘but how can woven fabric stretch?’, but if you go ahead and give your fabric a little tug from one corner to the other and you’ll find it ‘gives’ a bit. It’s not truly stretch, but just enough to allow the strips to ease around curves. And it’s this ‘stretch’ that makes finishing the curved hem or neckline so smooth and crisp!
Once you’ve got your cut strips, how you fold them determines how you use them. The main two types of commercially available bias are ‘Single Fold’ and ‘Double Fold’:
Single Fold Bias Binding:
Single fold bias is mostly used for facings and hems, and in places where it is INSIDE the make – although you absolutely can put it on the outside too!
The raw edges of the strips are both folded inwards to the middle of the strip, depending on the width of your bias, there may or may not be a gap between the two.
Double Fold Bias Binding:
Double fold bias is meant to be seen! It’s often used in bag and quilt making and wraps around the raw edges to completely enclose them. The extra fold means it can be folded over the top of an edge.
The raw edges of the strips are both folded inwards to the middle of the strip, and then it is folded again along the middle, so one edge will sit either side of the fabric.
Can I Make My Own?
You absolutely CAN make your own, and you’ll find some patterns even come with a pattern piece for bias so you can make it in the matching fabric. It can be the perfect choice when the binding it going to be on show, and lots of people enjoy the process of making bias themselves.
However, it’s worth noting, you often need A LOT of extra fabric to make it, and it can be quite fiddly, which as a beginner can be really off putting! Which is where we come in…
Our Bias:
At The Specky Seamstress, we currently make Single Fold Bias Binding. We think it’s absolutely perfect for finishing off makes and giving them a professional look. Our bias is unique as we design our fabric *just* for bias, so the patterns are printed to run along the length of the strips; every piece is high quality with a fun, intentionally placed design.
When Laura started The Specky Seamstress, she found herself wondering: Why would anyone spend all that time making a beautiful item, only to finish it with cheap, scratchy binding? Doesn’t your make deserve something special?!
Our bias is all printed in the UK on 130gsm Cotton Poplin, and manufactured in house.
Want To Give It A Go?
Why not try our Bias Tape Appreciation Society and get 2m of an exclusive new design through the post every month! That’s enough for a neckline and armholes, or maybe the hem of a dress: The Bias Tape Appreciation Society
Just want a bit to try out – what about our remnant packs? Each pack contains 3 individual pieces of bias ranging from 50cm to 100cm/1m in length: Remnant Packs
Not Sure How To Sew With Bias?
Why not check out Laura’s tutorial on Youtube? Bias Binding Tutorial – necklines and hems – YouTube